My first hiking tour is just around the corner! The autumn has already painted the landscape in vibrant colors, filling me with a sense of calm and anticipation. Relaxing hikes, quiet forests, and the peace of nature are exactly what I need right now. That's why my friend Vanessa and I have decided to try out our hiking tour "Magical Spessart".
But it's not just the idea of easy daytime hikes and cozy evenings with a good book that draws us to the Spessart. We're also drawn by the enchanting memories of childhood fairy tales and, of course, the fact that this region was once home to the Brothers Grimm. We're all set for a truly magical hiking adventure!
After arriving in Aschaffenburg, the starting point of our journey, we wander through the town, home to about 70,000 residents, and immediately fall in love. Charming half-timbered houses, warm-hearted people, and the sun reflecting off the Main River make us feel like we’ve stepped into a fairy tale! In the mild autumn weather, we stroll along the water, soaking in the atmosphere. Soon, we catch sight of Schloss Johannisburg perched on a hill. What a stunning view! We climb the steps to take a closer look at this towering red brick giant.
After thoroughly exploring the palace and the surrounding grounds, we stop for a refreshing drink at a small café right on the riverbank. Afterwards, we decide to take a leisurely stroll through the town’s quaint shops and inviting cafés. At a charming bookstore, we stock up on reading material for the days ahead—after all, we’re here to relax! In the evening, we opt for a hearty meal typical of the region. At a local tavern, we indulge in dumplings with mushroom sauce and a Gröstl. Satisfied and tired from our first day of exploration, we sink into bed, knowing we’ll need to be up early tomorrow!
After a restful night of deep sleep, like Sleeping Beauty, we enjoy a hearty breakfast at Hotel Wilder Mann. The hotel staff is attentive, and we lack for nothing at the breakfast table. Excited, we board the bus that takes us to the starting point of our first hike. We set off on the Franconian Marienweg, and within just 10 minutes, we've left all signs of civilization behind. The trail leads us through lush green forests as we make our way up to the Posthalterkreuz. The sun occasionally filters through the dense canopy, and the only sounds are the whispers of the forest and our own breathing as the steep initial climb takes its toll.
After a while, the path evens out, and we relish the peace and autumnal tranquility. On this trail, we encounter no one—it's as if the forest belongs solely to us. Occasionally, we spot some wildlife, like squirrels and a few cows, who watch us curiously from the neighboring fields. We take a lunch break at a chapel, where I enjoy an apple that seems to have been waiting for me on a nearby tree. "Just like Snow White," I say, and we both grin. Unfortunately, the sun soon fades, and we continue under a cloudy sky until we reach a small village.
It’s early afternoon when we reach our second accommodation. We are now in the small village of Heimbuchenthal, where we’ll be staying at Hotel Christel. After freshening up briefly, we’re ready to explore the area. We start by checking out our hotel, which offers numerous relaxation options, from a swimming lake to cozy outdoor seating. Unfortunately, it’s a bit too chilly for that in early October. So, we take a short walk through Heimbuchenthal to Mespelbrunn. There, we decide to indulge a bit and settle into a café where, despite the season, we treat ourselves to two ice cream sundaes.
We strike up a conversation with the friendly owner, who can hardly believe we’ve traveled all the way from Salzburg to hike here. Yet that’s exactly what we love about this place! With so few tourists around, we can truly relax and immerse ourselves in nature. After our little exploration, we head back to the hotel for dinner. A definite highlight is the wine: I savor a white called Oppenheimer Krötenbrunnen, which brings to mind the fairy tale of the Frog Prince. Everything here feels truly magical!
The next morning, we wake up hungry and head straight to the breakfast buffet. Since we’re staying at Hotel Christel for two nights, we don’t need to pack today—we can just set off on our hike. But before we really get started, we visit the Räuberland Tourist Information. There, we chat with the friendly staff, who give us expert advice on local hiking trails and attractions. Today, we have the opportunity to explore one of the many bandit-themed trails on our own.
Well-informed, we set off to Mespelbrunn to explore the enchanting moated castle that awaits us along our journey. We decide to postpone our hike just a little longer because we're eager to experience a guided tour of this magical place. It turns out to be a delightful decision, as the tour is absolutely mesmerizing. Our guide, a young woman around our age, pours her heart into making the visit both engaging and enchanting. As we delve into the castle’s rich history, we learn that it has been in noble hands for centuries, once hosting illustrious guests like the Brothers Grimm, who are said to have treasured their time here. The Mespelbrunn moated castle also provided the setting for the beloved film "The Spessart Inn" (“Das Wirtshaus im Spessart”) more than 65 years ago. We also discover nearby wonders, such as the family’s mausoleum and the Echterpfahl, a medieval gathering place for the bandits of old. Wandering through this realm feels like stepping into a fairy tale, with each corner of the castle and its surroundings whispering its own enchanting story.
After this (highly recommended!) tour, we finally set off to wander the Bandit Trail. Following it to the intriguing mausoleum, we decide to embark on a magical detour to see the Echterpfahl as well. This extended journey lets us bask in the delightful forest air and the serene afternoon hush. It feels like we’ve entered a fairy-tale realm! As we make our way to the Echterpfahl, we navigate through dense, whispering woods and along paths that seem almost enchanted. It’s easy to envision how the Brothers Grimm drew their fairy-tale inspiration from these very woods. After our mystical woodland adventure, we return to a cozy inn in the evening, where we indulge in a hearty meal and savor a glass of wine, letting the day’s enchantment gently drift into night.
Unfortunately, our last hiking day doesn’t start off magically: I wake up with a bad cold and stuffy nose. It quickly becomes clear that hiking today is out of the question. What a pity, as we’re missing one of the most beautiful viewpoints in the area. But health comes first, so we quickly flip through our Eurohike travel documents to figure out the best way to reach our final destination, Aschaffenburg. So we take the bus back to beautiful Aschaffenburg and to our starting point, the Hotel Wilder Mann.
With cough drops in hand, we decide not to let our final day before heading home go to waste and set off on a leisurely stroll through the town. We wander across the Großmutterwiese (yes, it really is called Grandmother's Meadow!) and savor the lovely parks the town has to offer. We meander through Aschaffenburg's pedestrian zone one last time, admiring the charming local shops, and let our final day gently come to a close.
My undisputed favorite place of this tour is the Schloss Johannisburg in beautiful Aschaffenburg! This impressive landmark, built in the 13th century, provides a stunning backdrop for the start of this magical and fairy-tale-like hiking adventure through the Spessart. With its grand architectural style, it perfectly embodies the enchanting charm of Aschaffenburg and invites viewers to dream. As a poet from Aschaffenburg once wrote, “The town is its castle.” – It’s hard to imagine a more fitting description of this fairy-tale sight.
