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Travel Story: Sardinia's East Coast

Hiking along the Gulf of Orosei
Hiking couple at Cala Mariolu

Without a doubt, Italy stands as one of my favourite travel destinations, which is why I've chosen this beautiful country again this year for my Team-member-on-tour mission—only this time it will be my first hiking tour in Italy. So, I’m trading my bike helmet for hiking boots and packing my bag for hopefully warm temperatures. The excitement is high to explore the Caribbean of Europe during our hiking tour at Sardinia's east coast over the next seven days.

Hiking couple at Cala Mariolu

Arrival in the Caribbean of Europe

Since we arrive late in the evening on our travel day, we spend the next morning exploring the quaint town of Santa Maria Navarrese before embarking on our first hiking stage to Golgo. This stage is one of the longest and most demanding, so we make sure to stock up on water and provisions at a small local supermarket. Our path takes us along a stunning coastal trail that winds above the sea, leading us to the impressive limestone peak of Pedra Longa. We pause here for a moment, taking in the view of the sea still cloaked in low-hanging clouds.

From Pedra Longa, the trail becomes steeper as we ascend narrow paths up to the first mountain ridges. Along the way, we’re treated to breathtaking views of the shimmering turquoise sea, each one more mesmerizing than the last. Once at the top, the trail levels out, following a gravel road that eventually gives way to a rocky path. We then descend toward the Golgo plateau, where we catch sight of our destination in the distance—the Rifugio Cooperativa Goloritzé, a welcoming sight after our journey.

From a Tranquil Oasis to Dreamy Coves

We spend the next three nights on the high plateau, where the only company we encounter are the many cows, donkeys, and goats roaming freely across the fields. If you're looking for peace and quiet, this is the perfect place to be. There's no need to worry about provisions, though as the accommodation also offers a restaurant where you can savor the local cuisine of the hinterland, and even pick up a packed lunch for your hikes.

The second stage of our hike leads us to the breathtaking Cala Goloritzé. We navigate a rugged trail that climbs upward before plunging down through a stunning gorge toward the shimmering sea. Upon arriving at the bay, we spread our towels on the soft, white stone beach and delight in the refreshing embrace of the crystal-clear waters. After soaking in the beauty of this enchanting spot, we retrace our steps along the same path back to the high plateau, carrying with us the memories of this idyllic escape.

Hiking couple with signpost ‘Cala Goloritze’

A Challenging Hike to the Gorgeous Cala Mariolu

The next morning, we set off toward Cala Mariolu, filled with excitement for the adventures that await us. Our first stop is the Church of San Pietro, where we marvel at the ancient stone Baitylos and the thousand-year-old olive tree. From there, we follow a gravel road that gradually becomes rockier and narrower. As we ascend through a forest, we scramble over limestone boulders and pass charming shepherd huts along the way. Later, we wander along the coastline, taking in stunning views of the sea as we approach the impressive rock arch of Arco Mariolu. From this point, a steep trail leads down to the bay of Cala Mariolu, a route truly recommended only for sure-footed and enduring hikers.

Naturally, we’re eager to explore this path as well. The trail begins with wooden ladders that guide us down into the woods, where a narrow zigzag path leads us further down. Soon, we find ourselves climbing down another wooden ladder and over rocks until we finally arrive at the enchanting Cala Mariolu. This is no easy trek, and we know we’ll have to retrace our steps on the same challenging path. However, the descent is undeniably worth it; the bay is a paradise with its white stone beach and crystal-clear turquoise waters. Sadly, we’re not alone in our little slice of paradise, as excursion boats also anchor here, adding a hint of life to this serene setting.

The Transition from the High Plateau to the Lively Coastal Town

After our final breakfast on the high plateau, we are transferred to the starting point of today’s adventure. After a 45-minute drive, we disembark and follow the riverbed until we reach the beautiful Cala Sisine beach. From there, the path takes us upward to the highest point of our hike, where we pause to let our eyes wander and soak in the breathtaking views. After a brief rest, we begin our descent through rocky and sandy sections of the forest until we finally arrive at the stunning Cala Luna beach. We purchase tickets for the boat that will take us to Cala Gonone. While we wait for the next departure, we relax and enjoy the beautiful stretch of beach. After a brief boat ride, we arrive at our destination for the next three nights—Cala Gonone. We’re warmly welcomed and immediately sense that Cala Gonone is a charming and lively vacation spot, a delightful contrast to the serene high plateau we’ve just left behind.

Flower on the beach with hiker in the background

Beach, Cliffs, and Sea: Hiking in Cala Gonone

The next day, we indulge in the incredibly delicious breakfast at our hotel, complemented by breathtaking views of the harbor. Afterward, we decide to tackle today’s hike in the opposite direction from what is described in our travel documents. Since we’re spending several nights at the same hotel, we have the flexibility to customize our hiking stages to our liking. We first take the boat to Cala Luna, where we begin our hike toward Cala Fuili. Once again, the trail winds through beautiful forested areas and along stunning cliffs until we reach the beach at Cala Fuili. Here, we take a few hours to relax and soak up the sun before continuing on our journey.

Our final hiking stage takes us up to a mountain pass where we circumnavigate the rugged massif of Monte Irveri. Today’s destination is the idyllic sandy beach of Cala Cartoe, where we, of course, take a break to swim and bask in the beauty of the enchanting bay. The return journey leads us along the steep coastline, offering fantastic views as we make our way back to Cala Gonone.

Evening atmosphere in Cala Gonone
Hiker with sea view at Spiaggia di Cala Sisine

Conclusion

A fabulous hiking adventure awaits you on the eastern coast of Sardinia, where you can immerse yourself in breathtaking coves and revel in the allure of crystal-clear waters. This tour truly has something for everyone. You’ll first experience the serene beauty of the high plateau before diving into the vibrant life of the charming vacation town of Cala Gonone. The variety of trail conditions is simply enchanting, from smooth, paved paths to rocky and sandy trails, with delightful sections that lead you up wooden ladders and steps.

Here’s a little tip: always keep your swimwear handy, as you’ll want to take refreshing dips in the stunning sea whenever the opportunity arises. This journey promises unforgettable moments and natural beauty at every turn!

My favourite place

My favorite spot on this magnificent tour is undoubtedly the bay of Cala Goloritzé. The journey begins along a rocky trail, winding past herds of goats, before descending through a shaded gorge down to the sea. Once at the bottom, you’re greeted by a breathtaking view of the crystal-clear turquoise waters. It’s hard to know where to look first—the sea sparkles in the sunlight, and boats glide gracefully across the surface, creating a picture-perfect scene. The final stretch leads down wooden steps to the beach, where the inviting crystal-clear water beckons you for a refreshing dip.

Cala Goloritze bay
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