Travel story Moselle and Eifel trail

Across Alsace to the Saarland

Even the journey is intense – approximately 650 kilometers separate our hometown from the starting point of our hike. So, we plan a small detour to Alsace and spend the night in the quaint town of Wissembourg. There, we are charmed by the timber-framed houses and their charming little stores, pass by the Church of St. Peter and Paul, and enjoy a delicious breakfast in a cozy patisserie. The route continues along narrow roads over the wooded hills of the Northern Vosges, and shortly after, we reach our destination of Perl, located at the border triangle of Germany, France, and Luxembourg. After a stroll across the Luxembourg border to Schengen and a visit to the Baroque Garden in Perl, we treat ourselves to dinner at the hotel restaurant and look forward to the start of our hiking holiday in Germany tomorrow.

From the tri-border to Palzem

The sun makes the morning dewdrops sparkle, we set off and make a brief stop at the viewpoint "Dreiländerblick" on the steep ascent to Hammelsberg. We continue along narrow forest paths, the branches of the trees form a green tunnel, the birds chirp: The day is awakening. We move away from the Moselle, walk through fields and forests, past fruit trees and come across the first vines shortly before Palzem. Of course, we taste the sweet grapes along the way. The first leg is complete! Upon arriving at the hotel in Palzem, we are welcomed with a refreshing drink and eagerly anticipate the wine tasting.

Through forests, meadows and vineyards to Nittel

A radiant morning awaits us as we lace up our hiking boots once more. We continue among vineyards, through forests, and across meadows, eventually reaching the small village of Helfant. A brief detour to Helfant Cathedral gives us a moment of pause, but soon we're eager to press on. The trail leads us up to a hilltop where we once again catch sight of the Moselle winding through the valley. Moving back into the forest and descending downhill, we approach today's destination: the wine-growing community of Nittel. Passing by several wineries, we quickly descend alongside a stream until we arrive at the vineyard where we'll spend the night. With the Moselle just a few meters away, we definitely plan to pay a visit to the river.

Over hill and dale to Wasserliesch

After a very restful night and a hearty breakfast, we begin the morning with a steep ascent to rejoin the Moselle Trail. A special highlight awaits us right at the start of this stage: the Nitteler Felsenpfad! We reach the cliff path through the vineyards, walking along it, climbing up, and hiking along a narrow path at the top edge of the cliffs for a good distance. The hillside is actively used for agriculture; many fields are plowed and meadows mowed. We spot buzzards soaring majestically over the fields, occasionally swooping down to catch a mouse. As hunger sets in, we stop for a picnic in the shade of an apple tree. Continuing downhill through the vineyards, we trek the final kilometers in the cool forest shade. At the Löschemer Chapel, we enjoy another splendid view over the Moselle valley before descending via the Way of the Cross to Wasserliesch. From there, we catch the train to Trier.

Princely gardens in Trier in all their splendour

Exploring Trier, the oldest city in Germany

Today, we leave our hiking boots at the hotel and set off in light footwear for our tour of Trier, having visited the Basilica of Constantine, the Electoral Palace with its palace gardens, the cathedral, and the Church of Our Lady last night. We look forward to exploring Germany's oldest city on foot and savoring the morning coolness. From the viewpoint on Petrisberg, we enjoy a panoramic view over the entire city, trying to spot the landmarks from afar. Descending, we pass directly by the amphitheater, then to the Roman baths, the Roman bridge, and the Old Crane (Alter Krahnen), walking along the riverbank to the boat landing. The panoramic cruise on the Moselle takes us downstream to Pfalzel and back. The Porta Nigra is impressive, marking our return to the old town. Now, it's time for a well-deserved break – the mild evening invites us to relax outdoors, and the nearby pub even offers live music tonight.

Monument for the Stations of the Cross on the Petrisberg

From the Moselle to the Eifel

The morning shadows are still long as we embark on the stage of the Eifelsteig. Crossing the Kaiser Wilhelm Bridge, we reach the entrance to the Felsenweg. Here, the Moselsteig and Eifelsteig run parallel along the upper edge of the red sandstone cliffs, before the Eifelsteig branches off shortly after Biewer from the Moselsteig. Now we hike up steep steps and paths to a plateau adorned with old fruit trees, young chestnut trees, and a massive oak providing ample shade. Today, we are mostly hiking through forested areas, enjoying the wonderful climate. We soon reach the Eifel Cross, erected at the intersection of several hiking trails. To reach the Genovevahöhle, we have to scramble steeply uphill — but it's worth visiting this impressive natural formation nestled deep in the forest. Continuing on, we pass the Klausenhöhle and arrive at the viewpoint Geyersley, which offers a view of the ruins of Ramstein Castle and the meandering Kyll River in the valley below. We descend into the Butzerbachtal, avoiding the destroyed Klammsteig by following a newly constructed path. Passing by the Roman mine "Putzlöcher," we arrive at the base of the ruins of Ramstein Castle, ascend another very steep hill, and hike through the shady forest towards our stage destination of Kordel. We reach Kordel via a narrow path lined with blackberry bushes. During the wait for the train to Trier, we finish our remaining provisions and have a chat with the stationmaster. Back in the city, on our way to the hotel, we spontaneously stop at a highly inviting monastery beer garden — what could be better after such a hike than enjoying a cool beer on a cozy bench in a shady garden?

Our favourite place

During the third stage of the Moselsteig Trail, we spontaneously decided to have a picnic under an apple tree right beside the path. We climbed up the embankment to find an old tree with branches providing just the right amount of shade that we needed. From there, we enjoyed a picturesque view of the hilly landscape, adorned with forests and vineyards, making it the perfect setting to savor our packed lunch.

Spreading apple tree that provides shade